Traveling Mexico city

Global Gayborhoods: Mexico City

The best cities have a heartbeat of their own, as if they would live and breathe without inhabitants. The first time you take a tourist stethoscope to Mexico City's heart, it can leave the impression that the megacity is arrhythmic -- thumping too fast one minute and perilously slowly the next.

That cacophony, however, is just the sound of multiple cities beating at once -- the breakneck flutter of the powerbrokers; the fitful bursts of the growing art scene; and the steady hum of commuter buses from the sprawling área conurbana
(like suburbs, but with different class connotations).

Founded by the Aztecs in the 14th century on an island surrounded by mountains, the city grew and grew, encircling, incorporating and inventing neighborhoods and villages as it changed hands from Aztec to colonial Spanish; Catholic to dictatorship; revolutionary to democratic.



Each heritage still beats in the culture, language, architecture,
food, laws and traditions of Mexico City
(el Distrito Federal, De Efe, or D.F., for short)



and the mixed history has marked the mega-metropolis
with a cosmopolitan acceptance of queer lifestyles
that is rare in the rest of Mexico.

Adding to its reputation as the gay seat of the country, Mexico City recently legalized same-sex civil unions -- albeit without adoption rights -- and passed legislation against sexual-orientation discrimination.



Tips: Sleeping
Accommodations around the Centro Histórico, Zona Rosa and Polanco neighborhoods are the best bet for most travelers. The areas are close to each other, near most major sights, known for their service and safety and convenient to the LGBT bars and clubs.

One very chic option, the Hotel Habita (Ave. Presidente Masaryk, 201, Polanco; +52-55-5282-3100; www.hotelhabita.com; from $175), is in the heart of Polanco, which is just about Mexico City's most upscale address and right next to the Zona Rosa, where most queer nightlife is concentrated. The spa, terrace bar and good -- if somewhat self-indulgently posh -- restaurant are also helpful, making the hotel a retreat from the city's frenetic pace.



Tricks: The Zona Rosa
Specific gay and lesbian hot spots open and close rapidly, but most are in or around the walkable Zona Rosa and most hang a rainbow flag out front. A good wander will give you an idea of what's available and one night out asking around will put you firmly in the know.

For up to date intel, check out Homópolis (www.saldelcloset.com/homopolis), which has a nightlife listings section and can be found in stores and cafes around the Zona Rosa.

Hibrido (Londres 161, second floor, Zona Rosa; www.hibridonightclub.com) in the Zona Rosa is a good mix of bar and club. Also in the Zona Rosa, the Living Room (Paseo de la Reforma 483, Plaza del ángel, Zona Rosa; www.living.com.mx) has outlasted most other nightspots. The combination of good shows, good dancing, and good-lookers will hopefully keep it open for awhile.



Tips: Sightseeing
Around the Centro Histórico's Zócalo, you'll find the massive Catedral Metropolitana and her 14 side chapels. She took two and a half centuries to build, only to start tilting under her own girth, sinking unevenly into the lakebed under Mexico City.

The Museo Rufino Tamayo
(Calz Mahatma Gandhi and Paseo de la Reforma,
Bosque de Chapultepec; +52-55-5286-6519;
www.museotamayo.org; closed Mondays)



in Chapultepec is also worth a look for its modern art collection,
including Dalí, Max Ernst, Willem de Kooning, Miró and Warhol.

Get a love potion to use on the girls and boys back home at the daily Mercado Sonora (Fray Servando Teresa de Mier and Calz Canal), or Witches Market, in Centro. Watch out for police raids, though, as the market also makes a fair trade in endangered flora and fauna.



Tips: Height-seeing
More than 19 million people live in and around Mexico City. Roughly, this is about half the population of California. Check out what this looks like from atop the Torre Latinoamericana (Torre Latinoamericana, between Aves. Benito Juárez and Glorieta Fuente de Petróleos) in Centro.

On a relatively pollution-free day, you can also see the mountains surrounding D.F. from the Torre, but avoid weekends, when all you'll see is the tops of others' heads.



Tips: Eating
Every food in the world is represented in D.F., but the corner taco stand is still king. In warmer months, great fruit ices and unusual -- but very tasty -- sweet rice drinks also appear curbside. In winter, the beverage market turns to chocolate. Thick with melted cocoa, this is best taken with cinnamon-and-sugar churros (deep-fried pastries).

Near the Zona Rosa and Centro, Churrería El Moro (Eje Central Lázaro Cardenas 42; +52-55-5512-0896) can satisfy cocoa and churro cravings all day and all night, every day of the year.

For a more conventional meal, the Hostería Santo Domingo (Belisario Dominguez 72, Centro; +52-55-5526-5276; www.hosteriadesantodomingo.com.mx; $15-$25) in Centro has been perfecting classic Mexican dishes since 1860. The chiles en nogada -- beef, almond, raisin and olive-stuffed poblano chiles with a nutty cream sauce -- are recommended, as are reservations.



Tips: Transport
Mexico City's bus system is extensive and rather easy to use if one is able, willing and patient enough ask bus drivers if they will stop at or near a particular street. Between the surprisingly efficient metro and an occasional sitio (legal taxi), however, most visitors' transport needs can be cheaply and easily met.

The metro closes at 1 a.m. Saturdays and midnight other days, so plan accordingly. Unless you are feeling particularly unmuggable, stick to calling legal taxis rather than waving down a "street taxi." Taxi Mexico (+44-55-3206-0042; www.taxi-mexico.com) is reliable, but some Spanish is helpful.